Factoring For Fabric Cost

Often designers over-spend on their latest masterpiece when shopping for fabric. This can easily be overcome by using a simple calculation formula that I give you in this very detailed article. You will learn how to calculate the exact yardage needed for any design in your collection. I will use a dress design that I created from http://chicanddelight.com/womens.html as an example, of a multi paneled dress that's lined and with facing pieces. After deciding on the fabric, specific to the design and lining. This formula is exclusive to figuring the cost of fabric only. The notions and interfacing are not necessarily part of fabric costs, but certainly are figures that will be in your expense report.

Lay out all the pattern pieces in construction order, keeping the grain lines parallel to each other. As if you where making a marker. Notice the photo of Dean Dyer laying out the pattern pieces. This helps to visualize where the fabric is going to be used in the design, as well as calculating the widths of each pattern piece.

Measure the widest part of each piece from stitching line to stitching line, and add them together in cut -1, cut - 2 orders. Note: some pattern pieces call for cutting more than 1, as indicated on the piece. To have enough fabric for each piece, add all the same cut pieces together separately and multiply by the cut number, and add the totals together. This example dress pattern has 4 panels, or pattern pieces that are fully lined, and has 4 facing pieces. All pieces must be computed into the formula to get the exact yardage of both fabric types. Of the four panels, three of them are cut - 2 pieces, plus the facing pieces. These pieces are the main fashion fabric that costs the most. The lining pieces are the same four panels excluding the facing pieces, yet still in cut -1, cut - 2 orders. The cut-2 pieces are: center back, side back, side front, and the facings of those pieces. They will also be the same pieces for the lining, minus the facing values. The cut-1 pieces are; center front and the facing. The lining is the same, minus the facing. As you find the widest part of each piece at the hem line, from cutting line to cutting line, write the numbers down in a mathematical formula.
Example: center back = 18, back side = 16.5, front side = 16.5, plus the top bodice facings = 9, back side = 8.25, front side = 8.25. Add up like so: 18 + 16.5 + 16.5 + 9 + 8.25 + 8.25 = 76.5 inches. Then, Multiply the cut - 2 pieces by 2 = 76.5 X 2 = 153. This is the total cut 2 widths that must be added to the cut 1 total width.

The cut 1 pieces are: center front, at the hem line , = 23, plus the facing = 12. Generally the center front piece is cut on the fold, but for convenience it can be made into a mirror piece. That doesn't change the measurement. Add together like the cut 2 pieces = 23 + 12 = 35 inches. Cutting only 1 of each, there is no need to multiply this number.

Now add the two totals together to get the total width of all the pattern pieces.

Cut - 1 = 35 + Cut - 2 = 153 = 188. Save this number. To find the total length measurement, measure the longest piece of all the patterns and use only the longest one. In this four panel dress the front side panel is the longest piece from the top above bust point to the hem line, plus the hem length, this dress is: 61 + 2.5 = 63.5 inches. Now multiply the length and the width totals together and divided by the width of the fabric. Generally retail fabrics come in two standard widths of 45 or 60 inches. L X W = 188 X 63.25 = 11938. This seems like a big number, but it will get smaller as the other variables are computed. Find the lining figures by subtracting the facings from the calculations. Refer back to the beginning: 18 + 16.5 + 16.5 = 102 + 23 = 125. There are no facings in this calculation. The lining length is the 63.25 - 4 inches of the facing length, from the top above bust point to the top of the liner piece = 59.25, multiplied by the total width of 125 = 7406.25 is the lining total factoring formula figure.

Generally the total width is unknown until the choice of fabric is made at the time of purchase at the retail store, so calculate out the formula using both width values to save time. For this dress the total L X W is 11938 divided by the general width of 60 inches = 198.96 for the main and 127.08 for the lining. Use the same calculations for 45 inch wide fabric, or even 23, what ever.
The last step in the formula is to find the total yardage for the design at hand. That is in yards, so 36 inches = 1 yard. Divide 36 into 198.96 = 5.53 = or approx 5 an 3/4 yards of main fabric that is 60 inches wide, and 3.43 or 3 an 1/2 yards of lining. Now what is it for 45 inch main fabric?
Now this is the formula for factoring fabric cost, which saves time, money and allows for profit calculations of the bidding process.
LXW = TI/FW/36 = TY( Length X Width = total inches / fabric width (36 inches) = total yardage )

Total Length by total Width equals Total Inches, divided by Fabric Width, divided by (1 yard) 36, equals Total Yardage needed for any design. And the same calculation for the lining and any other fabrics that you want to use in the design that have separate pieces.

Practice using this formula with all your design projects and you’ll never over bid or over spend again, and you will be able to factor in a profit margin as you gain experience.

I have used this formula for many years and have enjoyed to process every time. If you have any questions please feel free to ask in the comment box and I will answer.